Tutorial: Create Colorful Backgrounds for Your Portraits
October 20th, 2009 | Published in Featured, Photoshop, Tutorials | 5 Comments

With some simple adjustments in Photoshop, you can turn any interesting texture photograph (left) into a stunning background for a portrait. Texture photo by Kuschelirmel-stock. Ballerina portrait copyright by Chris Pike.
In a previous post, we looked at how you can create the look of a traditional studio portrait using the filters that come with Photoshop. Today we’ll show you how to get exciting results using a photograph of a textured surface as your starting point. As you can see in the above example, the final background can be quite different from the original texture. The method we’ll use allows you to adapt stock photos to suit the mood and color scheme of your portrait, using non-destructive layers. Let’s get started!
Our portrait is a live-action shot taken during a ballet performance. While the pose is near-perfect, the background is pretty drab. So the first step is to remove the figure from the background. There’s many ways to do this, and you probably have your own favorite way of masking out a figure, so I’ll just quickly give the method I used. Rename the main layer from “Background” to “Ballerina.” Then insert a layer below it, filled with white. With a soft eraser brush, carefully paint up to the edges of the figure. Select the remainder of the background and hit Delete. Your figure is now on a transparent layer with no background.

Separate the figure from the background, so that it is on a transparent layer by itself. Original photo copyright Pike Photography, Hattiesburg, MS.
For our background, I’ll use a stock photograph from deviantArt member Kuschelirmel-stock. You can see this texture at the top of the article, next to the finished portrait. I’m sure you’ll agree the final background is quite different from the original stock texture. This was achieved by adding a purple color fill layer below the texture layer. By turning down the opacity on the texture layer, the purple color shows through. Above this two adjustment layers are added. By keeping each alteration on a separate layer like this, you can continue to tweak all the parameters until they are working together the way you want. This flexibility allows your creativity to do its thing. Give it a try, and you’ll see!

Sometimes it helps to think of layers like panes of glass. Turning down the opacity, as we do here with the texture layer, allows us to “see” some of what’s below it. The mask on the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer is like a pane of glass coated with black, with a clear oval in the middle. This darkens the edges. Finally, the top levels layer darkens the whole “sandwich”. This helps our dancer to really pop.
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October 21st, 2009 at 7:36 pm (#)
Hi:
I’m pretty ignorant about layers, so it’s probably something I’m leaving out, but this does not work for me. I create a new layer; rename the background layer; move the new layer under the old background layer; activate it; select all; fill with white with the paint bucket; paint with white brush up to the edges of the figure on the original layer; press delete (Win Vista keyboard, not MAC); nothing happens.
So I never get to the sec ond stage of your procedure. What did I do wrong?
Thanks,
Bert
October 21st, 2009 at 7:42 pm (#)
Hi Bert –
You almost have it! Here’s the process:
Create the white-filled layer, and put it underneath your image layer (like you have done).
Now: activate the image layer. Choose the ERASER tool (a-ha!) and paint away with any color at full opacity. Use a soft brush (change hardness setting to somewhere in the middle) to get a more natural edge.
The reason for the white layer is so you can see what you’ve erased. Otherwise, you get the usual checkerboard, which I find hard to see.
Hope that helps!
Bob
November 10th, 2009 at 1:07 pm (#)
Please give me. Your Training lesson(type of pdf)
I’m study you lesson
July 24th, 2010 at 6:42 am (#)
HI WHEN I TRY TO ERASE UP TO THE EDGES OF THE FIGURE,I GET A MESSAGE ‘COULD NOT USE THE ERASER BECAUSE THE TARGET LAYER IS HIDDEN’.WHY IS THIS ?PLEASE HELP.
THANKS
NAZEEM
July 26th, 2010 at 9:22 am (#)
Hi Nazeem –
I was able to duplicate your problem. Make sure the layer you’re erasing on (the photo, in this case) is not turned off (the eye is open, not closed). You can’t work on a layer that is inactive. Hope that helps –
Bob